Browns Basin Ski Mountaineering

Changing mindset (i.e. getting out of a rut) and recognizing opportunity in what may seem like challenging conditions takes conscious effort, but can be especially rewarding. Like driving my tiny Aveo from Anchorage to ski new lines at Hatcher Pass over a decade ago during a season when the studded tire ruts on the Glenn Highway were especially bad, recently I needed to make a conscious effort to shift lanes and get out of a rut. 

Prior to March 2023 this snow season had been providing incredible powder skiing in the Central Chugach. So far, March has brought a lot of wind but little snow. For my partner Jess’ spring break week (the first week of March), after so much good powder skiing earlier this season, it was hard not to be bummed by snow conditions. The snow was in awful shape: beat by multiple wind events without the slightest refresh and highly processed by abnormally warm temperatures and intensifying spring sunshine. 

But a forecast for several more days of sun and relatively warm temperatures meant it’d be comfortable in the mountains, especially for a multi-day trip this time of year. I just needed change my mindset (shift lanes and get out of the rut from so much powder skiing) to recognize this opportunity: a fine one for snow camping and mountaineering. No trail breaking through powder and generally firm surface conditions make for efficient backcountry travel deeper into the mountains. 

Considering that summer mountaineering trips have no fun descents, it’s all about being in the mountains and the views, we recognized the opportunity and decided to ski up to Browns Basin for camping and mountaineering. With no beta available, but the map suggesting a lot of reasonable options for ski-peakbagging appropriate to the conditions (recent high winds and an extreme temperature inversion with it well above freezing at the upper elevations made for interesting avalanche conditions), we set out.

We spent a day skiing in, me towing the sled, and setup a relatively comfortable base camp. The next day we climbed a prominent 5300’ peak (dubbed “Agisaq” Alutiiq for “lookout” or “observation point”) which provided amazing views of Port Fidalgo. The third day we climbed a 5080’ peak (dubbed “Qateriuq” Alutiiq for “ptarmigan”) with over 1000’ prominence which looks out over Port Gravina. It was surreal with only the high peaks poking through a stratus deck at ~4000’. The fourth day we exited, fortunately, as a bora wind event began that evening with winds to 80mph.

Surprisingly, while there was challenging snow to descend on our routes, there were some good turns to be had after all. As always, and most importantly, the Valdez area Central Chugach provided big adventure with a second-to-none ambiance.